The study of safety and skin whitening efficacy of melinjo (Gnetum gnemon L.) seed extract-loaded lipid particle gel

Background: Melinjo (Gnetum gnemon L.) seed extract (MSE) is potential as skin-whitening agent because it contains trans-resveratrol and its derivatives, to inhibit tyrosinase in melanogenesis process. Using MSE in cosmetic products will be challenging due to resveratrol chemical instability and bioavailability in the skin. Many cosmetic products have been developed using lipid particle technology to improve their limitation. The objective of this research was to examine the skin safety and whitening efficacy of MSE-loaded lipid particle gel in healthy human subjects. Materials and Methods: Single occlusive closed patch test for 24 h was used as the skin irritation analysis. Irritation responses were graded after patch removal and compared to the control for evaluation. The efficacy study was performed using Mexameter to measure skin melanin index on 25 female volunteers. Results: The result showed the test product did not induce skin irritation effect. The skin melanin index was statistically significant decreased (P < 0.05) after 28 days of application the test product, with the averaged by 3.50%, and skin melanin index changed by increase 0.75% in the control group. Conclusion: Application MSE-loaded lipid particle gel can brighten the skin, without cause irritation under normal conditions of use. Abbreviations Used: α-MSH: α-melanocyte stimulating hormone; MITF: Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor; MSE: Melinjo seed extract.